Santiago, I am thinking good thoughts for you

Oh terrible. I arrived at the airport of Buenos Aires having heard from the taxi driver that there was an earthquake in Santiago, but did not think of anything big or a major emergency. However, after arriving and talking to LAN (the airlines) it seemed that this was a state of emergency. Already, they have found over dead and injured. The earthquake was about 8.8 with aftershocks of 6.6 and such. They say that Tsunamis may hit the coastlines and even Hawaii. I am lucky that I was here in Buenos Aires and hope that the people of Santiago are surviving and made it through the night. This will definitely be something to remember. I also feel bad for my fellow studying abroad comrades who most likely have been traveling for a long time and will probably be redirected to Buenos Aires. They most be so tired.

I am just "waiting out the storm" in the airport and a cafe with wifi service. I will probably head back to Centro and see my friend's family. Look for a better hostel and at the meantime upload my photos. Last night I was rushing and trying to upload photos and did not succeed. How funny that now I will probably have plenty of time to upload them. Not sure if the airport will be opened later tonight, tomorrow morning, or in two days. I have heard rumors that it may be in two days time. If so, that means I have some more time for Buenos Aires and can devour down dulce de leche and asado.

Punta Tombo

Penguins, March of the penguins. Unfortunately I was not able to have Morgan Freeman join me on this expedition. Today I went to Punta Tombo and saw the colony of Magellan Penguins. They are so freaking adorable, I love how they walk. If everyone walked like a penguin I think the world would be a better place. Well maybe not better, but more entertaining. There was about 3 km of trail to walk through the colony, and nests galore, surrounding you as you walked.

At some points you would have to stop and let the little guys walk past you with their wings at an awkward angle and their little feet scooting through the ground. I forgot a lot about the specific facts which were given to me..but just enjoyed walking along.

Later I was able to take a boat and follow some very cute dolphins..this black and white species that would swim in front of the boat. I only got one picture though and you can only see a little bit of them. They are fast little devils and so hard to snap a shot. Especially when rocking back and forth. Well, I am just hanging out at the hostel, about to drink some mate with some locals, visit another museum and set off at 11:30 for Buenos Aires. No more traveling in Argentina until I figure out my schedule of classes and such. I have loved this past month and look forward to settling down in a city. Next stop: Santiago, Chile.

Peninsula Valdez

O que lindo. Today I set off for Peninsula Valdez, which usually is packed during the migration of the whales. And is also famous for the Orca whales that kill their prey (seals-elephant seals) by stranding themselves on the beach. I have seen this before on discovery channel and such, but never knew that this is the predominant place where you can find orcas that have this technique of hunting. I wish I could say I saw an orca attacking a seal...but alas I cannot.

However, I can tell you I saw some very very cute little baby seals all along the beach. And at this time of the year after the mothers give birth they go out to the ocean and hunt for food, about 3 days. On return to the beach they come out of the water and yell, a gurgling guttural call, to their child. And if they came up on the correct part of the beach their baby should reply with another cry, softer but still coming from below. I was able to witness this display.

The mother was swimming close to the shore and started to yell, you could than hear another cry in reply and witness some movement amongst the masses of babies and other mothers. As the mom came out of the water the baby seal started pushing through the herd and moving towards mom. All of this movement with the ever ceasing cries from both mom and baby. As the mom fully emerged from the water you could see the baby running or I guess wobbling on its body (almost like the worm) as fast as it could go. It was incredible. I want to say they embraced each other warmly..but all I could see was two bodies colliding.

Later, we saw some Magellan penguins (tomorrow I am going to Punta Tomba, and that is the hub of penguins so Ill talk later about them) and some elephant seals. But not too many because it is not the right season to witness their babies and such. When they have their babies or the kids are about to leave for the ocean...you have higher chances of catching some orcas that are in need of food. Another time, another time.

Bzzz

Buzzz...I really love nature and unlike my younger self have come to appreciate long hikes, grueling treks, etc. However, it is still hard for me to get past spiders, spider webs, and insects. I just really dislike the feeling on my skin and bugs that are crawling on me. Call me a wimp, whatever, that is just how it is.

Today, I returned to Parque Nacional de los Alerces and went hiking. The first hike was supposed to be to a Waterfall...however I only saw a waterfall from about 75 feet above on a cliff. During this hike I was followed by an insect. At first this buzzing kept flying around my head..doing circles over and over again, I thought it was a bee so I picked up my pace and tried to out walk it. No luck, it kept on trekking along with me and flying around my face, over and over. Thus, I decided to run. I sprinted for about a good minute, thinking surely this bug will leave me alone. But alas, no it kept on flying around my head and trying to land. Uhh, I was getting annoyed and I must admit kind of scared. I did not know if this was an attack from Bees or what. SO I continued sprinting and no luck, after 5 minutes the thing came back to my head!

I finally ran enough so that the thing left me, however more of them followed me through out the day. That was the only bummer of the day. The rest of it was nice and tranquil. The lakes around the park reminded me a lot of Liguria, with a green blue water against rocks. I wish I had brought my swimming suit because everyone was at the little beach hanging out.

Rapid Rivers

Yesterday, I went for the first time, rafting down some level 3 or 4 rapids. It was raining the whole time, but was so glorious. Even with the rain and the coldness against my skin I would look at the surrounding rocks, waterfalls, droplets against the water, and just think how beautiful it all was. I have never been rafting before and for the first time it was amazing. I was in the spanish group and learned very much the words ¨adelante, atras, atras izquierda, halt,...etc¨. No one in our group fell off but there were some close calls.

At one point we were able to jump off the raft and float down a more calm rapid, which I did and enjoyed greatly. But my body afterwards did not enjoy the coldenss of the air surrounding me. We continued on for about 12 km down the river and ended up in Chile. My first crossing to the country I shall be studying in! Only about two minutes later did we go back to Argentina to eat asado and such.

Today I am going on a horseback ride...however I do not know how much I will be able to do, because I did not sleep at all last night..I stayed out with friends at the discotec and than stayed up talking until about 7, so why sleep if I was supposed to be awake for horseback riding? No se, todavia que quiero descansar pero no puedo y todavia que quiero estar viajando con mas tranquilidad pero no puedo porque tengo ya reservas en lugares y los hostels. Espero que en el futuro yo puedo tener un viaje asi, caminando sin saber donde voy a estar el proxima dia o sin saber donde me voy a dormir. Pues, con amigos sera mejor, pero si lo necesito hacer sola lo voy a hacer. Dale, ahora si que necesito dormir porque esta blog es un kilombo y si puedes leer esa mal espanol, bueno pues...nos vemos manana y espero que no me voy a dormir sobre el caballo.

Bus Ride

I have been in Bariloche for one day thus far, after the longest trip ever. Or at least I thought..two full days in bus. Well one day in bus and the other day in one of those big vans. Today the weather has just changed to some sun, earlier I went bike riding around the area with jeans and got poured on...not the best idea.

However, now about the bus ride. I think this speaks alot about Argentina. I was placed in the very front (that was my assigned seat), next to the drivers. They would switch every two hours or so. Well, Dario and I started talking and convresing while Neto was driving. Mate was brought out and I just assumed like all the other drivers I have had I would not be offered any, however they included me in their circle of mate and we continued talking and passing mate until the water was done. My first ¨circle¨ of mate accomplished! Yes. We picked up people coming from Calafate and an older man sat right next to me...seemed nice at first and he was...but by the end of the trip I wanted to shut him up. He was a salesman (thus the talking) and at times creepy. Good thing my iPod lasted the whole way, I guess I could have pretended to listen to music to get out of talking.

Anyways, at every stop they would refill the hot water and we would commence mate drinking. I really enjoy the ritual and drinking mate, even amaro (spelling?) or without sugar. And I am also loving on dulce de leche. When Matteo first brought it back from Argentina I didnt really like it, but now I crave it and always end up buying a little dulce de leche snack at the kioscos.

Tomorrow: rafting, the next day short horseback riding and onto Esquel.

Forgot my quick dry towel at the last hostel: crap. Im debating whether to buy another yet, because I may meet up with the people from that hostel...however who knows.

Perito Moreno (Glacier)

Holy cow, what a day. I woke up pretty early cause I could not sleep that much. Due to excitement and a roommate in the hostel snores...even with my ear plugs I had difficulty draining it out. The hostel is so sweet, they are very helpful here and give good advice. Plus they are pretty sweet people.

Anyways Glacier Perito Moreno was sooo amazing. First, we saw probably about 4 different ice pieces falls throughout the day into the lake, and the last one was HUGE, luckily I got someones email who has it on video!

Now for the trekking on the glacier. I found out it was more expensive than I thought, but now I dont care cause it was so worth it. The blueness of the ice when you walk on it and cross crevasses is undescribeable. At one point we had to cross a small creek that was way to deep to walk past. One of the guides hacked off a chunk of ice in hopes that it would create a bridge..well it did work until I went down the vertical side put one foot on and started to do the splits...Pablo the other guide quickly took his pick ice and stabbed it to stop me from going down, they were able to reposition the block of ice and thus i stepped across and climbed the other side.

Just a small glimpse and it was just amazing. I have never seen anything like it and hope to find more adventures ahead! I leave Calafate tomorrow and head to Chalten. Hope for good weather so I can see some peaks!

Sangre

Oi, what a day. My feet are killing me...reason: I wore new shoes and could not find a pair of cheap flip flops, thus i ended up bleeding a lot behind my heels and new blisters galore. Ew, that put a halt on my day's progress and was not the best for my mood. However, I was able to go forward and make it to the Cementerio de Recalota. One of the most amazing cemeteries I have seen in my life. All of the sculptures and tombs looked as if they belonged in a Church in Italia or where made for something else. So many amazing sculptures to look upon, I was there around 12ish and could only handle the heat for so long. With only one spot for shade, I ran to my next adventure.

After taking some time to relax my feet (they only just began to bleed and it was only my right foot) in a cafe, where I enjoyed a licuado a duranzo with tostada, I headed to el Museo Nacional de Bella Artes. Free museum! Spent almost 3 hours in that thing, there were only two floors but so many rooms and so much art. It was very interesting to see it in a semi progression. Because the first floor began more towards Renaissance, Enlightenment, and than moving forward until the second floor contained more modern and than even way more contemporary/abstract pieces.

Going out of the Museo I headed towards the Flor de Metal which was a gift to Buenos Aires and was HUGE. All silver plated, reflecting my white skin that did not need any more exposure to the sun and surrounded by flowing water. A very cool sight to see on a street bustling with cars.

A long walk later with feet newly bleeding on both sides I made it to Jardin Japone, or Japanese Gardens that were also right off the street. A huge garden area, with Koi swimming all around the water, bridges to cross and see where they go. Nice benches all over the place, a beaver family strolling for food. It was a nice location to just stop and relax, especially since I gave up on walking. It is the worst to stop walking with blisters, because than you feel the pain and can't get back into walking. The only thing I wish this garden had was perhaps a wall to block off the view of the many cars zooming pass and the noise of traffic. Than it would have been purely amazing.

Some bumps

Ah...how I love banks in other cities. False. So, I am trying to reserve all the nights I will be staying in various hostels around Patagonia. One such hostel asked that I send part of the payment as a reservation through the Banco Nacion de Argentina. Well, turned out there was quite the line...Coti met me at the bank but thought it would only be 15 min and when we both saw the size of the line I told her to go back to work and I'll figure it out.

After waiting in line for probably 1 hr and 20 min I arrived to the caja (clerk). Only to be greeted with documents I had to fill out, which conveniently were filled with words that I never come across. I think it was pretty obvious I was a foreigner and thus got some help, but alas at the end she told me my debit card would not work and I had to be a client of the bank or have one of their cards. How is that possible for me to achieve when I just want to deposit a little bit of money into some other person's account? Ah...so infuriating. I was almost on the verge of tears because I was so frustrated from standing in line for such a long time only to be rejected. I turned my frustration into anger and kept walking to Puerto Madero.

There I stopped for some ice cream at Freddo's and sat and enjoyed the view. Puerto Madero is the youngest barrio of BA and turns out to be my age! Born in 1989, well according to the posters I kept seeing. It is a very nice area with water, bridges, brick buildings. I took my time strolling up the walkways and visited Fragata Sarmiento a ship that made over 100 trips around the world or long ones at least. It was very interesting and had a little too much information.

Later that night I met up with Coti and her friend at the Konex, a kind of industrial outside warehouse. Bomba de Tiempo a really good drum group was going to perform. An amazing location, amazing music and very very fun. The most tourists I have seen thus far though. After that we left to meet Alfo (friend I met in Italy) at a restaurant. Had my very first Asada, yay! So good, I just would not recommend the spleen. Not sure if I really enjoyed the taste, however the rest was very good. My favorite is chorizo thus far. A good end on a day that began not so well.

El Campo

Today I was invited (or joined) my friend Coti to a birthday party out in el campo (our countryside). Before we even ventured out of BA we stopped by a house to join all the people that were coming because we would caravan out. The one thing I am still getting use to is un beso on the cheek for anyone you meet. There I was following Coti and her friend Melanie, saying 'Hola' and kissing every cheek of about 13 guys. It is so normal for them and yet for me so out of the loop. I really think that it is a great addition to any culture because immediately I feel more accepted and comfortable with these people, but I still feel like a novice.

The birthday party was held at Leo's family's house in the outskirts of BA on a farm/ranch. When the rain finally stopped it was so pretty and very serene. They had there pool being filled with water, but alas the rain made sure to put a stop to any sunbathing. I they did not serve asada, but I did have some very good chorizo and "patty" (hamburger) on an open grill. Everyone was very nice and I finally had my first mate in Argentina! Later on when the guys picked up I could speak and understand spanish they started asking questions and talking more. It is hard for me at this point with my spanish to fully start up a conversation unless asked a direct question first. My more proud moment was when we played a sort of pictionary game but with movies and I was able to actually help out my team. We lost, and amidst Coti's standing on the chair and flashing the oscar (trophy of victory) Leo (birthday boy) grabbed her and in full attire dumped her into the pool.

There is something within greeting people on the cheeks with kisses and something about how natural people are here. It seems as if they don't put up boundaries. Im not sure yet what it is and I probably will never know. But I do know that I love the culture and people here, and I've only been visiting for 4 days.

DP

DP=Dance Party. Well, that occurred around 2 am and continued till 4:30 am. My first taste of night life, however it was just more of a hang out with Coti and her brother's friends. It was a lot of fun and I enjoyed meeting them. They continue asking for clarifications, whether it is "Beer" or "Beard", "Bitch or Beach", or even if it is normal for everyone to say "What is up nigger". Which, when I heard him ask me that, I just started laughing...and said no it is not normal.

Prior to the night festivities and hanging out I got to walk around San Telmo, what I hear is one of the more rich barrios and areas of BA. Also, tourists galore. I ran into more travelers, one from England and another woman from Holland. After my little museum exploring and walking in another torrential rain storm I headed towards el Museo Malba. Where I was going to meet Coti. Malba is the modern art museum and was amazing. They were featuring an exhibit on Andy Warhol and I knew of this famous pictures, like Marilyn and the Campbells Soup Posters, but I never really knew his story and how much he "represents" an American artist. It was a really nice exhibit.

And alas, we continue onward towards new barrios. Today: Palermo. Tonight: Not sure yet.

The Lone Traveler

I went out yesterday all over downtown Buenos Aires or el centro. I started by taking the Subte (subway) and getting off at Plaza de Mayo, walking around the Plaza, looking at Casa de Rosa (a high up top government location/house for president and others) and wandered over to the Catedral.

From there I meandered around and got lost...in my attempt to find the pedonal de Florida, a main busy street built for just pedestrians. Finally I figured out what the street signs meant and realized I had been on this street! Kept walking around and stopped by the Galeria de Pacifica, an indoor shopping center with a really beautiful mosaic/painting on the top ceiling. It reminded me a little of the Galeria in Milano (not as pretty though). After that I headed over to Plaza de San Martin to wait for my friend Coti.

She was getting off work and was going to meet before we went to the bus station (Retiro) to figure out my trip details down south. As I was waiting I met a nice Italian couple (I overheard them speaking Italian) and talked about travel plans and where they are from in Italy.

From just this morning by myself I am realizing how hard it can be to travel alone and also the first few days of traveling. I understand it will take patience and down time, but it is hard knowing that I left comfort of home and family. And now I walk alone, wanting to have someone to share this experience with and to lean on when I get lost. In reality, it really is not that big of a deal, but I just feel a little lonesome to not have a traveling companion.

I think my trip down South towards Patagonia will be better, I'll have nature as a friend and after that I'll be heading towards Chile and meeting other people my age who are going to be experiencing the same things.

Un beso. (I also think the US needs to get on top of greeting each other with a cheek/kiss 'hello'. It is just more friendly and creates an easier transition into talking)

Buenos Aires

I have finally arrived! After an insanely long trip, going to Dalles, lay over and than 10 hour flight I made it safely into Argentina. However, what I found amusing was that I supposedly left winter in Portland (I left on a beautiful sunny day), only to arrive in the summer amidst a terrential down pour. And when I say down pour, I mean down pourrr.

Good thing I had my rain jacket...but not much help did that do. While on the plane flying over my mom made me a little gift with some chocolate, prayes to protect me, and a card. It was hard to read it as first because I was still kind of sad to leave the comfort of home, but she thankfully included a quote from Diarios de Motociecleta:

Ernesto: What de we leave behind when we cross a frontier? Each moment seems split in two: melancholy for what is left behind, and the excitement of entering a new land.

I think this really helped me focus on the excitement of traveling and having the patience to adjust to a new culture. I am not going to be at ease for a while, so I may as well get use to it and just enjoy it.